Ben and Lindy's Travels

Living the nomadic lifestyle
My photo
in April 2010, we started the next phase of our retirement as ex-pats in Ajijic Mexico.

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Welcome to Ecuador

Ecuador, a country no larger than the State of Colorado, is a land of contrasts. From large cities, small villages high in the Andes, beaches and jungle, Ecuador has something to offer everyone. On this trip we focused on the high mountain plains, traveling virtually the entire length of the country during our month long stay.



Quito (elevation 9,200 feet), is the capital of Ecuador and home to 2.2 million people jamed into in a narrow valley ringed by volcanoes. As our plane made its final approach toward the airport near the city center, we were convinced we were going to land on the roof tops.


Thirty minutes north of Quito is the equator (hence the name Ecuador). Here we are in different hemispheres, but still shoulder to shoulder.


Prior to the Inca domination of Ecuador, the indigenous people would shrink the heads of their loved ones so that they could carry them and keep them close. Pictured here is the shrunken head of a young boy.


Indigenous people believe that animals can detect positive and negative energy in humans. According to this llama, we have great energy otherwise it would have been spitting at us rather than eating out of our hands.



The original city of Quito, founded by the Spaniards in 1535, is clearly demarcated in the foreground of the picture. In the background are the taller buildings of the "new" Quito.



The old town, with its narrow cobbled streets, has been lovingly renovated, making it a vibrant area full of great restaurants and quaint shops.


Speaking of restaurants, the concierge at our hotel directed us to a local restaurant serving typical food. On the menu, for a mere $3.00 was a plate of french fries, salad and guinea pig, a national delicacy. Assured the guinea pig tasted just like chicken, we settled on chicken!


Next stop Otavalo

Otavalo is a small town in the Andes three hours by bus from Quito. Its claim to fame is "The World's Largest Indigenous Craft Market". There's no shortage of bananas either and for $1.00 we bought a bag of tangerines.


The market was a sumptuous feast of hand crafted alpaca hats, scarves, sweaters, wool wall hangings, rugs and jewellery, all at extremely reasonable prices by US standards. Lindy was like a kid in a candy factory and Ben did the bargaining in his very best Spanish. The young lady, a Caras Indian, told us it took her three days to make the rug she is holding. She is dressed in typical fashion for the area, clothing of Imperial Inca times, adorned with gold necklaces imported from the Czech Republic of all places!



This darling couple have been making wool garments from scratch since they married some 50 or so years ago. The first part of the process is combing the wool, then....


spining the wool - such togetherness!


It takes three days to make a scarf, which sells for $6.00.


This family owned business hand makes bamboo wind instruments and took time out of their day to perform for us. They were apparently "discovered" in their small village and proudly showed us a poster advertising their tour of Japan. Ecuadoreans love music, and songs from Simon and Garfunkel's "Bridge Over Troubled Waters" are standards heard often here as they lend themselves wonderfully to the bamboo pipes.


Bright colors are another feature of Ecuadorean crafts, particulary tablecloths, bags and scarves.



The floor of this valley was once the crater of a volcano. The rich fertile soil produces the most incredible organic fruit and vegatables. Next we explore Cotacachi, Cuenca and Vilcabamba....
Lindy & Ben




Monday, October 5, 2009

Back at the beach

After a month inland, we took a five hour bus ride for another beach fix on Isla Mujeres, a Carribean island twenty minutes across the bay from Cancun.


A day in paradise begins with a spectacular sunrise.

Thanks to the media hype in the States about the swine 'flu, we had the beach to ourselves....

and the clear blue sea as well.

As the only customers on the beach, we received VIP treatment from our waiter, Roger.

Having lunch served on our beach chairs allowed for uninterrupted time to renew our tans.

We rented a golf cart for the day to explore the island, which is four miles long and a mile wide. We stopped at Zama, a restaurant on the beach for lunch and a dip in their pool.


All the restaurants in downtown Isla offer open air dining to people watch.


It was all we could do to keep a straight face when we ordered our food from this menu. Can you spot the number of spelling errors?

But the food was great and...


for a few pesos we were accompanied by music of our choice.


Thank you Shirley for the wonderful meal.



Construction was going on for a couple of days in the little house next to our hotel. Our neighbors had turned their front porch into a rotissorie chicken joint and we were cordially invited to the grand opening.


All smiles for the first day of business, which apparently was a huge success. When we got back from the beach that afternoon, they were all sold out and....


had closed for business!

You have to dry your laundry somewhere - why not on the sidewalk?

To celebrate our new status as Lyla's grandparents (abuelito Ben and abuelita Lindy), we'll put a bid on these rockers when we finally settle down in our place in the sun.


Swinging in a hammock makes for the best siesta.


Life's tough at the beach.



As the sun sets on Isla Mujeres and our Mexico travels, we begin the next phase of our journey in Ecuador.


Stay tuned.... Ben & Lindy

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Ruins and Cenotes, Yucatan, Mexico

We took a day to be real tourists and drove about 90 miles from Merida to visit the famous Chichen Itza Mayan ruins. We had a personal guide who spent two hours explaining the culture, history and purpose of each building. Here are some of the highlights

Over 1,533 years ago the Mayan pyramids 0f Chichen Itza were constructed. In the Mayan language Chi = mouth, chen = well and Itza was the name of the tribe inhabiting the city. In 2007 Chichen Itaz was named one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. Today, only 35% of the site has been excavated with on-going archaeological digs.

As the Mayans did not have horses or oxen, every stone was carved, carried to the site and put in place by hand. This is the Kukulkan pyramid used for ritual sacrifice and official proclamations by the Mayan rulers.

During the summer solstice and the autumn equinox the sun shines through the door at the top of the pyramid displaying the shadow of a serpent down the steps.

On Sundays, athletes played a game on the ball field. The players were only allowed to touch a rubber ball, the size of a softball, with their feet, legs and hips aiming it through a hoop to score point.


No mean feat when you consider the hoop is about 20 feet off the ground!


From box seats high above the ball field, the Mayan ruler and his family would watch the game, as well as the sacrifice of the captain of the winning team. His sacrifice was considered a great honor.

The Group of a Thousand Columns was the central market place of the city.

The Observatory was used by Mayan astronomers to create the 365 day Mayan calendar.



The purpose of this building was never established and for lack of a better name, the conquering Spaniards called it "The School".

There are no lakes or rivers in the Yucatan. However, there is a huge aquifer under limestone. Local lore suggests that the many cenotes (sink holes) throughout the region were created by meteors hitting the earth during the time of the extinction of the dinosaurs.

The water in this cenote is over 40 feet from the opening above.
Great for swimming after a hot day at the ruins.

" Look Mom.....no hands!"




We're headed to the beach.......join us soon for swimming, snorkling and sand.




Ben & Lindy




Sunday, September 6, 2009

Merida, Mexico

Merida, capital of the Yucatan, is our new home for the next month. The Yucatan has a different "flavor" than the rest of the Mexico, influenced by Mayan culture and the conquering Spaniards. Merida, founded in 1542 by the Spaniard Francisco de Montejo,
today is a cosmopolitan city of over a million residents.



The Palacio de Gobierno (the Governor's Palace) built in 1892, all decked out for Mexican Independence Day on 16 de septiembre.



Merida has several plazas where live, free entertainment is offered practically every night of the week. On Saturday evenings in the Plaza Grande, traditional dancers in Yucatan dress perform the jarana, which means "noise and loud fun of the common people"

The Anthropology and History Museum built in 1909 and once the residence of Governors of the Yucatan, is a magnificent example of Colonial architecture.


Shopping in Merida can be quite of trial. We decided that a good marketing slogan might be
"If you can find it, we'll sell it to you!"

Although we needed new flip flops, we just didn't have the energy
to sort through this pile for a matching pair!


Grocery shopping however, can be an orderly endeavor. As long as Ben is armed with a cup of coffee, he is game for anything!

Across the street from our house is "Tendejon David." Here we can find soda, bottled water, aspirin and chips - the essentials of life!


We ate at a gourmet restaurant overlooking the Monumento a La Patria. This sculpture represents the history of Mexico and is rich with Mayan symbolism. It was carved out of quarry block and took the sculptor Romulo Rozo, twelve years to complete.


The neighborhood eatery on the other hand, has a view of our street complete with laundry.

On a typical Mexican street, you never know what's behind a door. Although we must confess, we were somewhat relieved when our rental agent unlocked the door to the red casa!


Inside, the entire home has been renovated while keeping the integrity of the classic Colonial architecture. The tiled floors are all original and the 20 foot high beamed ceilings help keep the room cool.

Thankfully, the kitchen has been modernized!


The courtyard is a wonderful haven and the pool an added bonus with daily temperatures in the upper 90's.


Here we are pictured on the Paseo de Montejo, considered the "Champs Elysees" of Merida, an elegant tree-lined boulevard.

The Yucatan is famous for its Mayan ruins, beaches, colonial cities, caves and cenotes and we have gone, seen and conquered several...stay tuned.