Ecuador, a country no larger than the State of Colorado, is a land of contrasts. From large cities, small villages high in the Andes, beaches and jungle, Ecuador has something to offer everyone. On this trip we focused on the high mountain plains, traveling virtually the entire length of the country during our month long stay.
Quito (elevation 9,200 feet), is the capital of Ecuador and home to 2.2 million people jamed into in a narrow valley ringed by volcanoes. As our plane made its final approach toward the airport near the city center, we were convinced we were going to land on the roof tops.
Thirty minutes north of Quito is the equator (hence the name Ecuador). Here we are in different hemispheres, but still shoulder to shoulder.
Prior to the Inca domination of Ecuador, the indigenous people would shrink the heads of their loved ones so that they could carry them and keep them close. Pictured here is the shrunken head of a young boy.
Indigenous people believe that animals can detect positive and negative energy in humans. According to this llama, we have great energy otherwise it would have been spitting at us rather than eating out of our hands.
The original city of Quito, founded by the Spaniards in 1535, is clearly demarcated in the foreground of the picture. In the background are the taller buildings of the "new" Quito.
The old town, with its narrow cobbled streets, has been lovingly renovated, making it a vibrant area full of great restaurants and quaint shops.
Speaking of restaurants, the concierge at our hotel directed us to a local restaurant serving typical food. On the menu, for a mere $3.00 was a plate of french fries, salad and guinea pig, a national delicacy. Assured the guinea pig tasted just like chicken, we settled on chicken!
Next stop Otavalo
Otavalo is a small town in the Andes three hours by bus from Quito. Its claim to fame is "The World's Largest Indigenous Craft Market". There's no shortage of bananas either and for $1.00 we bought a bag of tangerines.
The market was a sumptuous feast of hand crafted alpaca hats, scarves, sweaters, wool wall hangings, rugs and jewellery, all at extremely reasonable prices by US standards. Lindy was like a kid in a candy factory and Ben did the bargaining in his very best Spanish. The young lady, a Caras Indian, told us it took her three days to make the rug she is holding. She is dressed in typical fashion for the area, clothing of Imperial Inca times, adorned with gold necklaces imported from the Czech Republic of all places!
This darling couple have been making wool garments from scratch since they married some 50 or so years ago. The first part of the process is combing the wool, then....
spining the wool - such togetherness!
It takes three days to make a scarf, which sells for $6.00.
This family owned business hand makes bamboo wind instruments and took time out of their day to perform for us. They were apparently "discovered" in their small village and proudly showed us a poster advertising their tour of Japan. Ecuadoreans love music, and songs from Simon and Garfunkel's "Bridge Over Troubled Waters" are standards heard often here as they lend themselves wonderfully to the bamboo pipes.
Bright colors are another feature of Ecuadorean crafts, particulary tablecloths, bags and scarves.
The floor of this valley was once the crater of a volcano. The rich fertile soil produces the most incredible organic fruit and vegatables. Next we explore Cotacachi, Cuenca and Vilcabamba....
We hiked a scenic gorge along railroad tracks that were abandoned long ago. The trail wound from the riverbed through...
several tunnels considered engineering marvels for the times.
On to the town of Banos, the toffee capital of Ecuador. Every other store was engaged in the street-side production of this really sticky, sweet delight.
Every Ecuadorian town and village has its own special saint and Banos was no exception. Through the month of October the villagers set off fire crackers throughout the day, walked in parades in their Sunday best as pictured above, and held frequent services in the church that were broadcast on loudspeakers in the town square well into the night. One morning we noticed a line of cars parked opposite our hotel with doors, hoods and trunks open, for the local priest to splash holy water and say a special "car blessing".
The excellent volcanic soil produces wonderful fruit and veg....
huge green onions (spring onions) sold in bunches for 50 US cents.
Pork is a popular menu item - head 'n all.
One stop shopping - tours, river rafting, bicycle hire and laundry.
We gave up our lives to the gods and boarded this rickety cable car....
to cross the gorge to bring this photograph to you!
We also trekked down a very, very long, steep path at the bottom of the gorge to see this beautiful waterfall.
Happy 21st birthday, Lindy.
